Gas Bike Manual
Break In
Taking GREAT CARE throughout the initial first 2 (full) gallons of
premixed gas is essential! DO NOT OPERATE FOR PERIODS OF MORE THAN
20 MINUTES AND DO NOT RIDE FASTER THAN 20 MILES PER HOUR!!! This is
an essential consideration and critical to the proper operation of
the engine. Use a high quality synthetic 2 cycle motorcycle engine
oil and follow the below break in schedule and fuel to oil mixtures.
Get a 1 gallon gas can and pre-mix your fuel. Use this
fuel exclusively for your motorized bicycle.
This engine is a 2 cycle design; therefore,
a gasoline/oil mixture is necessary.
|
Break In Period 2 full tanks and
after |
|
Oil gas mix of 20 to 1 |
|
(7 ounces of oil to one gallon of gas) |
Engine will develop more power after break in.
1.)
Open the gas valve all the way (this is located on the gas line
coming out of the gas tank.
2.)
Open the choke on the throttle half way (pull the small lever up
towards you about half way up. In colder weather you may need to
open the choke all the way (pull all the way up toward you)
3.)
Push the small tickler button on the side of the carburetor 1 to 2
times to inject some gas into the carburetor.
4.)
Pull the hand clutch all the way in (Clutch is located on the left
hand grip)
5.)
Peddle the bike normally to get up to a good speed and let go of the
left hand clutch and give the engine a little gas by twisting the
right hand grip. Engine will now start spinning. Pedal until the
motor
starts. Accelerate slowly at first.
6.)
You may need to do this a few times and it helps if you start the
bike down a driveway slope or hill.
7.)
Remember to slide the choke lever closed after the bike has started
and run for a few seconds. (all the way down is closed)
8.)
Turn gas lever off when parking the bike or when you are done riding
to prevent gas from flooding and gumming up the carbonator.
I.
To stop, disengage clutch and apply brakes. To accelerate,
pedal and
release clutch while opening throttle.
II.
If the rpm needs adjusting, turn the idle adjust screw (left
side of
carburetor) in or out slowly to obtain the proper idle speed of
about
1000 rpm +/- 100 rpm .
III.
To stop the engine, push Kill Switch and turn off gas valve
at tank.
Turning off the gas will prevent fuel from being siphoned from tank.
*Remember to follow all regional traffic and
safety regulations.
|
Problem
|
CAUSE |
|
Bike will not start |
Check Gas valve on gas tank to make sure it is open. |
|
Bike will not start |
Check that the choke lever is open (up) while starting |
|
Bike will not start |
Remove spark plug and clean (check fuel to oil mix) |
|
Bike will not start |
Check the wire connections from the CDI on the bike frame to
the engine |
|
Engine sounds funny when riding. |
Verify that the choke is closed (positioned all the way down
on the carburetor) after the engine has started. |
Detailed
Troubleshooting
Poor starting scenario 1:
Hold in the clutch. Let out the clutch. Keep pedaling while the
engine
turns over and you can hear the piston moving up and down in the
cylinder. The bike does not produce any power.
Remedy:
1. Make sure all nuts and bolts are snug per maintenance
instructions.
2. Check the fuel.
3. Check the fuel valve. Down and in-line is on. Sideways is
off. (Always turn the fuel valve off when not in use to avoid
accidental spills.)
4. Check the position of the choke. Down for normal running
and
warm starting. Up for just a second during cold starts.
5. Visually inspect that fuel is in the fuel line. All that
is
needed is a trace amount. Pressing the 'tickle' button several times
with the fuel valve open can help with this.
6. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connections
leading from the magneto are connected. Blue leads to blue, black
leads to black as the wires enter the CDI box from the magneto. Make
sure that a proper connection is being made in the spark plug boot.
Inspect and/or replace the spark plug. Correct spark plug gap is
0.036".
7. Follow the white wire as it leads from the magneto up to
the
kill switch. On certain models, the kill switch may be at fault
grounding out against the handlebar. Disconnect the kill switch at
the
handlebar and attempt to restart the bike.
Poor starting scenario 2:
Hold in the clutch. Let out the clutch. Keep pedaling and the bike
drags to a silent halt. The engine does not turn over. Just a weird
zombie thing happens with no noise from the engine and definitely no
power.
Remedy 1: Clutch free play. A small amount of free play is needed in
the clutch lever. Too much and the bike won't start. Too little and
the bike won't start. Small adjustments can be made in the barrel
end
adjuster at the clutch lever, while major adjustments are done at
the
clutch arm cable stop at the engine.
Commonly used
tools
8mm - 17mm metric wrenches
4mm Allen wrench
5mm Allen wrench
6mm Allen wrench
8mm Allen wrench
Flat-Head screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Engine
Maintenance
Every day riding:
Pay attention to three main areas around the engine.
With a 10mm wrench, carefully snug up the 2 bolts on the carburetor
intake manifold, tighten the 4 bolts on the top of the cylinder head
by hand. Snug up the bolts securing the exhaust to the cylinder.
Also,
ensure that the rear tire position is correct to clear both the
engine
drive chain and the right-side chain stay evenly.
Front wheel
- the wheel is secure, the wheel is true, tire
pressure is correct, tire bead is seated properly and uniformly
across
the rim, fender strut nuts and bolts attached.
Rear Wheel
– wheel is secure, wheel is true, tire pressure correct,
proper tire bead seat, chain does not rub on tire, wheel bearings
are
within adjustment and there is no play or tightness in the coaster
brake bearings. Adjust the rear wheel in the dropouts if engine
chain
rubbing occurs. To either center tire into position or adjust chain
tension, loosen one side axle nut and then pull the portion of the
wheel closest to the bottom bracket towards you and then retighten
that side axle nut. Then, do the same to the other side until the
rear
wheel has the same distance between the engine drive chain and the
right side chain stay… i.e. loosen the right axle nut, pull the
wheel
to the right, retighten the right axle nut; loosen the left axle
nut,
pull the wheel to the left, retighten the left axle nut. Repeat this
procedure until both chains are tight and the wheel is centered and
not rubbing.
Chain Tensioner:
The chain tensioner acts in many ways the same as a
derailleur guiding the chain onto the sprocket. With the clutch in,
check that the tensioner guides and centers the chain onto the
sprocket teeth in the middle of the chain. If you have to reposition
the chain tensioner to adjust for chain slack or if the tensioner
gets
knocked out of position somehow, make sure that the chain tensioner
is
fastened with self-tapping screws to support the side load that
occurs
during engine start up and overrun/deceleration.
Clutch Free-Play:
Too much clutch free-play or too little clutch free
play will not allow the engine to engage. Adjust the free-play as
needed, either on the clutch lever at the barrel-end adjuster for
fine
adjustments or on the engine at the clutch arm's cable-stop for
gross
adjustment.
Please Note:
Engine lock up or piston seizure due to improper gas /
oil mixture will not be covered by factory warranty. It is the
responsibility of the owner/operator to make sure the gas and oil is
mixed correctly.
Warranty
We are not responsible for any damages caused from mishandling of a
motorized bicycle. We will replace factory
defects within a reasonable time, but do not specifically
offer a warranty on any of our gas powered bicycles. We do not
accept any returns on motorized bicycles
once the engine has been fired because we cannot resell them as new
to
anyone else. However, we are here to answer any
questions and help troubleshoot any problems that should arise with
a MethowBikes built bike. In the end, we stand behind our
bikes and know that you demand quality. We are here for you.
